The Bay Of Islands

Mendi Mayıs 30, 2022

After a restless night at my accommodation in Awanui, in Northland, I left early in the morning and headed down the east coast to the Bay of Islands. I had to call in to see the Mangonui Wharf as I had heard so much about it and its fish-and-chips shop.

The fish shop is on the right of the picture

Unfortunately the shop was not due to open for another two hours and I could not wait that long. A sign outside advertised that they sold “king prawns, kina tubs, Mangonui chowder, Pacific oysters, hot coffee and cold beer, raw fish salad, smoked fish, marinated mussels, calamari, and kid’s meals.” It sounded like a great place to buy fresh kaimoana (food from the sea).

I eventually arrived at Kerikeri, a place I had not visited since being on honeymoon fortysix years ago. I had thought to visit the model Maori Village there, but it too was closed.

The gateway entrance to the Maori village

Across the river from me (accessed by a footbridge) was the historic Stone Store and Kemp House, part of the Mission Station that was established here in 1819.

The Mission Station at Kerikeri

The Stone Store was built in 1832 and has served as a warehouse, trading post, library, army barracks, boys’ school, and general store (not all at the same time!). Today it operates as a gift and souvenir shop.

The Georgian-style Stone Store

On the outskirts of Paihia is found the Raruru Falls, a five metre high waterfall on the Waitangi River. I was lucky to find a car park as the place was busy with tourists and families. There were many people swimming in the rock pools above the falls, and the rest of us were busy taking photographs!

Raruru Falls near Paihia

A visit to Waitangi was another must, and I went there next. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in 1840 between English colonists and Maori chiefs, and is regarded as our nation’s founding document. A lot of controversy still surrounds this Treaty, and I was pleased to see that the Museum presented both sides of the history in a fairly unbiased manner.

The flagpole on the large sweep of lawn

The building now known as the Treaty House was built around 1833 as a home for the governor James Busby and his family. It is one of New Zealand’s oldest surviving buildings.

Waitangi Treaty House

Beautiful cottage gardens have been established around the outside of the house, including fruit trees and grape vines. So very different from when I last visited and the house was a lonely lifeless building that smelt musty and echoed badly. The restoration of house and garden is great to see.

Part of the cottage garden surrounding the Treaty House

Close by the Treaty House is a Maori Meeting House, built in 1940 to celebrate 100 years since the Treaty was signed. Together the two buildings are meant to symbolise partnership between the British Crown and the Maori people. The house itself reflects the stories and carving styles of different tribes around New Zealand, and, after removing my shoes, I had a quick look inside.

Carvings and woven panels inside the Meeting House

The evening was calm and warm and perfect for an evening stroll. I wandered down from my motel to downtown Paihia and drank in the atmosphere. There were a lot of people around, patronising one of many different eateries or doing some souvenir shopping. I thought this statue of a swordfish beside the wharf was rather appropriate, as a lot of deep sea fishing excursions begin here.